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| ...rig settings | ||
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Purpose: These notes are a rough guide to set up a new boat for the first time, or to set up again if you have forgotten your "tuned" settings! Thanks to Mark Giles as the source of these notes. (Please refer to the Setting up from Scratch section for tuning the settings.) Mast Step: Bolts in position as delivered. Shroud Plate: 5 holes down from the top. Spreaders: Adjustable length -- one empty hole visible.Spreader Bracket: Outboard end -- use forward hole. Inboard end -- use forward holes on bracket and spreader. Lower Shrouds: Tension the forestay and adjust lower shroud plates to give approximately 2cms deflection at the centre of the shroud from the nominal straight line position. Kicking Strap: Take off point on boom may have to be adjusted fore or aft by about 1 cm. Forestay: Important -- use moderate tension for sailing and release tension, so that rigging is slack when boat is left ashore. Sailing: In fresh conditions, first tighten the clew outhaul, then pull on kicker and finally tighten the Cunningham. With everything moderately tight the lower shrouds should just become taut. The foot of the sail should not become curled. Curled = too much clew outhaul tension. |
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| ...Training Pics | |
| Most of the Pictures here are of Richard Pakes's boat, 666, and were taken on the Training day on 12th April. Important Note: The big pictures open in a new window and will be blocked if you have a pop-up blocker turned on for this site! | |
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Most of rudders have a bit of sideways play so it is a good idea to pad them out to prevent this play and a CD is perfect for this. Here Richard has finally found a use for the Bay City Rollers Greatest hits! Also note the way that the rudder retaining clip is bent the other way to stop the rudder falling out. |
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You may have noticed that the Supernova is a bit prone to stalling in tack. Here some elastic has been attached to the tiller and secured on the plastic cleat at the back of the cockpit (found on newer boats - but there are plenty of ways to achieve this on older boats). This elastic not only helps prevent over steering the boat - but if you drop the tiller ensures that the rudder comes back to the middle! A "must have" fitting! |
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Both the adjustable mast rake and the kicker system are continuous which means that there is no end to the control line. It is a joined up loop. Richard has used a 4-5mm Excel Racing which has a dyneema core. Dyneema d12 if you have'nt come across it is very easy to splice. Both of these control lines are long enough so that they can be adjusted whilst fully hiked - and the kicker long enough so it doesn't foul the centreboard. |
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The standard way that the clew is attached to the boom is through a slider in a track. This can create quite a bit of friction (which can be eased by placing some plastic/mica under the pulley attached to the clew. The modern boats now coming out Hartleys keep the clew to the boom by simply tying it down (a la Laser). |
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Here the standard multi-block kicker has been replaced with a modern cascade system - again using dyneema. This is now the standard kicker system for all new boats comning out of Hartleys. The advantage of this system is that it allows finer and smoother adjustment. (You may also spot that the lowers have been replaced with dyneema! - to save weight) |
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When it gets really light the centre bridle gets in the way of getting right forward. On Richards boat he has a lenght of thing rope permanently tied to the loop in front to the centre mainsheet block and kept tidy when not in use by a piece of elastic. This can be switched over on the water and when in use gets allows the helm to get right forward. |
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All of the new boats coming out of Hartleys now hare a ramp under the mast in recognition of the amount of mast rake now being used by a lot of the top sailors. Richard has retro fitted a ramp under his mast step making it from an old chopping block (not wooden!) |
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Most people are sailing now with adjustable forestays allowing the rig to be raked back upwind and pulled straighter offwind. There are lots of ways of doing this. Richard has the standard Hartley setting of cleats behind the mast. Also shown here is another way of doing this, generally as seen on older boats, where the mast rake is led out to a cleat on the end of the other cleats. Another method - not shown here (yet) is for a swivel cleat just hehind the mast. Also shown here is the business end of the adjustable forestay - show the all important saftey line!. |