Securing Tiller in Stock

[Andy_1272]

Hi

I've just got a new supernova and have a problem where 3 times now the tiller has pulled out of the stock while sailing - it ruined my race last night and I'd been doing really well!

We have a bit of a weed problem at my club so several times each race I have to pull my rudder up to clear the weed and back down again. If the downhaul doesn't really securely lock into the cleat and the free end of the downhaul snags on the toestrap, the downhaul easily pulls out of the cleat and then there's nothing to hold the tiller into the stock. A small pull on the tiller pulls it out of the stock. The tiller on my old boat used to be a very tight fit and took a lot to pull it out, but the new one, while being a nice fit, pulls out easily. A continuous uphaul/downhaul would mean there's no free end to snag, but I think would also make it difficult to quickly pull the rudder up and then down again while sailing.

So I'm looking for suggestions for a way to secure the tiller which mean it is still easily removable. The obvious one is a drop pin through a hole drilled from side to side through the stock and rudder, but should i be concerned that as the boat gets more use, the wedge fitting of the tiller into the stock will wear and the tiller will need to be secured slightly further in? Another option would be a separate rope off the back end of the tiller into a cleat somewhere on the stock or tiller.

Has anyone else had this problem and secured it a different way?

Thanks
Andy

[Pete1177]

Hi Andy,

The root cause of the problem here is poor cleat holding. If you can resolve the downhaul cleat issue then your problem is fixed. I had this problem in the past when going upwind as my rudder used to lift partially causing lots of weather helm. I first replaced the plastic camcleat with a metal one. This did resolve the issue for a while but I found it was still relatively insecure as the metal cleat wore the downhaul outer braid reducing the cleating power. So I decided to swap the metal cleat with a Spinlock cleat (only on the downhaul line). I have had this arrangement now for over two years with no problems. The only thing you need is a base plate for the Spinlock to match the 32mm diameter tiller (the Spinlock base is flat) and a lacing eye for control line tie off (see photo) as you don't have any tie off on the cleat now. The lacing eye is riveted underneath the tiller extension clamp. I made a few cleat bases in nylon using 3D printing technology. I may have a spare so if you are interested let me know.

Spinlock Rudder Downhaul Cleat

IMG_02771.JPG (37.8 KiB) Viewed 11375 times

3D printing model - cleat base

Cleat Base1.JPG (12.63 KiB) Viewed 11375 times

I never have any problems now with the tiller extension detaching or rudder lifting during racing. The Spinlock is easy to snap open with a quick flick on the control line if you want to uncleat for weed, beaching etc.

Hope that helps

Pete
Class Secretary
SN1177

[iainbarlow]

Hi Andy,

I used to have this issue on 1090. Is the tiller loose in the stock? Mine used to have a lot of play. Even if the cleat had a good purchase the play was excessive.

I drilled & tapped the holes to remove the play. But if the play is excessive, call Hartley's given the age of the boat - sure they'll sort it out for you.

The cleats on 1275 work fine for me but I then wrap the loose lines around the tiller stock to keep them out of the way, this might help stop them catching the toe strap.

Regards,
Iain
SN1275

[DuncLlew]

Pete
Having same problem of a lifting rudder while sailing in stronger winds but worried the Spinlock wouldn't give if I run into shallow water? Never sure of the depth when I jump out at Dell Quay so often run aground. Is there an optimum diameter rope that holds best in normal cleat? Would a second cleat work maybe? Thanks.
Duncan 1136

[Pete1177]

Duncan,

It's true that the Spinlock cleat is nice and secure and holds the rudder firmly down. What I do when coming close to shore is to quickly flick the Spinlock off then the rudder is free to move up. Even if you run the rudder aground you are unlikely to do much except maybe scrape the rudder a bit.

I can't say about having 2 cleats - not tried it myself but if 1 cleat is not holding then it must be better to replace the cleat with a new one. I would say that thicker cord will hold better. I use 5mm control line where the outer is braided. Maybe 6mm would cleat better with standard cleats.

Pete
SN1177