Fixing broken continuous control lines - any links to videos

Tuning the Supernova Dinghy

Fixing broken continuous control lines - any links to videos

Postby DuncLlew » Thu Jun 13, 2019 3:08 pm

Hello

Can anyone recommend a "how to fix continuous control lines" video please? One has snapped / come apart. Found English braids one but it looked very complicated with a special tool. Thanks.

Duncan
DuncLlew
 
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2018 2:09 pm

Re: Fixing broken continuous control lines - any links to vi

Postby Cbownes » Thu Jun 13, 2019 6:35 pm

Hi Duncan,

The link below will take you to Steve Cockerill's splicing video which is really easy to follow. For any splicing though you will need some specialist tools (fids) to do the job which can be purchased on line from most chandlers.

If you are coming to the nationals and can wait a couple of weeks I'm happy to give you a hand?

https://www.roostersailing.com/pd/Roost ... 106104.htm
Cbownes
 
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:52 am

Re: Fixing broken continuous control lines - any links to vi

Postby DuncLlew » Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:27 am

Thanks for that - will buy some of those fids and give it a go. Presume the lines already on it are those easy-splice ones (SN built in 2015).
Sadly shalln't be at the Nationals but do hope to maybe come along to an open event sometime to get some tips; will look at a southern event next year.
DuncLlew
 
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2018 2:09 pm

Re: Fixing broken continuous control lines - any links to vi

Postby Jhobson » Wed Aug 28, 2019 2:42 pm

Same happened to me on my kicker line in the middle of a race. I did a quick knot repair and carried on.

Then I followed the Youtube links here and others I found. (I find myself hearing "Rooster Easysplice Continuous Control Line" in my sleep now :D )

So I bought from Sailboats.co.uk

* a pull fid and a couple of small fids as a 3 pack (£19.95)
* 3 m of 4mm dyneema to practice on (£3.54)
* a roll of Marlow #4 whipping twine (£5.19)

From Ebay I bought a pair of CK Tools Heavy Duty Electricians Scissors for £13.60 (the middle set in Pete's review which worked fine)

After a bit of experimentation and Youtubing I worked out that it was easiest if I covered the cut end I was pulling with sellotape leaving half an inch spare to flatten at the end. I could then fold this flattened sellotape round the end of the pull fid and it helped the rope get through the hole without coming loose. I also used one of the small fids to help enlarge the entry hole a little. I then found that in order not to lose the rope half way down it was best to "milk" the outer braid over as well as pulling gently.

After a couple of attempts I got a good secure splice and tacked it with the twine (which went through with an ordinary needle very easily). Rock solid.

So I went to the boat this weekend and did a reasonable splice before realising that, working without having the boom and kicker up, I had inadvertently fed the line through the kicker shackle when doing my mid race knot repair. :D (Schoolboy error - some bad language ensued). Check your lines are fed right BEFORE SPLICING people!!!

As I had tacked the splice with twine I found it impossible to undo without damaging the braid so I had to cut it and resplice. There seems to be a fair amount of spare with the boom down and the kicker slack but once rigged it turned out to be a close thing so don't do get too enthusiastic with your splice lengths without checking with the boom up and kicker attached! Anyhow the second splice was neater than the first and held in some quite breezy sailing over the weekend. Result!

So as somebody who can hardly sew a button, has no spatial awareness that my wife can discern, and has never done anything like that before I was pretty chuffed, and would say if I can do it anybody probably can!

It cost me about £40 but I'm ready for next time now!
1084 - Coniston SC
Jhobson
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2019 9:46 am


Return to Tuning

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests

cron