Supernova Upgrades

[Pete1177]

I thought I would post a list of upgrades which I have done to my boat. This is so that anyone attending the Nationals at the end of June can consider adding them.

Kicker take off improvements - soft attach on boom and bottom of mast (can be done with a loop of dyneema) - very reliable, no metal to fail.
Kicker calibration system - uses a 2:1 calibration scale on the boom for accurate kicker tensioning.
Rudder safety line improvement - Mark 2 only - see Gavin's tips.
Spinlock cleating on halyard - never let me down in 5 years of sailing (Spinlock PXR0206 around £30).
More secure cleating on rudder downhaul using a Spinlock PXR0206 (I had a problem with rudder uncleating and lifting during racing) - it requires a base moulding to match the tiller extension which I got 3D printed in ABS. I could get a batch of these made if enough demand).
Better toestrap (Zhik) - the Hartley one is rubbish. The 'How to' is posted elsewhere in this forum.
Centreboard rubbing strips - worth renewing easy DIY (gives a nice smooth CB operation).
Shroud attachment using eyelets instead of U Bolts (stronger). Probably a nice to have.
Forestay safety line - getting the right length - See Gavin's tips.
Using thimbles instead of blocks (e.g. forestay) - more reliable but you need to re-rig the control line.
Off the boom sheeting - better ratchet action - keeps the cockpit floor clear.
One string bridle using Dyneema (probably needs a 'how to' demo).
Cable wrap around the toestrap tensioning bungee - prevents getting your foot caught between the bungee in a tack.
Improved sensitivity luff telltales (document now on website). Cheap and easy DIY. Better upwind sail trim = better speed
New gooseneck design - low friction, low wear - now available from me (£20). Why would anyone fit the rubbish Superspars one when this is the same price?
Tapered battens - well documented on here. Extends the usable life of a worn out sail and makes the rig easier to handle.

Pete
Class Secretary
SN1177

[Steve1142]

Hi Pete
What size ratchet block do you use off the boom?
Steve 514

[Pete1177]

Hi Steve
I used a Selden automatic ratchet block, 45mm. Will handle mainsheet sizes to 8mm. This has a safe working load of 150kg - more than enough. You can adjust the ratchet 'kick in' point with an allen key. The block is about £55.
Pete

[Steve1142]

Cheers Pete
I will try this on Saturday using 200mm length of spliced dyneema. If I find this works to my advantage I will have a go at the One string bridle system using Dyneema.
Steve 514

[Steve1142]

Hi Pete
Could you please kindly send me the 'how to' demo for the one string bridle?
I have been using the spliced dyneema of the deck for a couple of months and find it very comfortable.
Cheers
Steve 514.

[Pete1177]

Hi Steve,

Unfortunately I don't have a 'How to' demo written on this topic. We are thinking of running a splicing tutorial event at a future Class training session. This will cover splicing dyneema and continuous control lines, but I expect numbers will be limited as this will be a hands-on tutorial.

I could produce a basic guide (given time) but you would need to know the basics of splicing dyneema (eye splicing and burys). The one string bridle works specifically with off the boom sheeting.

Pete
Class Secretary
SN1177

[KeithRix]

Hi Pete. Like yourself I am finding my rudder continually lifting during racing, so if any one else has shown an interest in the 3D base moulding, please add me to the list.

[Pete1177]

Keith
The spinlock cleat on the rudder downhaul works really well - I never have inadvertent rudder lifting now. I'll order a few custom spinlock base profiles and let you know the cost (probably around a fiver) so that you can fit one in time for the Inland Championships.
Pete

[Pete1177]

I have ordered a quantity of 10 3D printed cleat bases which will allow a Spinlock cleat to fit the 32mm diameter tiller tube, This allows you to fit a Spinlock cleat to replace the standard clamcleat which tends to lose grip after a while. With the Spinlock cleat on the downhaul (2:1 arrangement), the rudder is firmly held in the down position when sailing so that you have no fear of the rudder lifting and losing you valuable seconds during racing upwind. An additional advantage is that you can quickly unlock the cleat without fiddling about - particularly useful when beaching with an onshore wind so you don't ground your rudder and potentially damage it. The Spinlock has a roller-action unlock mechanism for easy release under high load. Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGqEevr50II

Keith - I have sent you details for payment by email. The cost including P&P is £5 for the cleat base.

The additional parts you need to fit this upgrade for a total cost less than £40 are:

Spinlock cleat PXR0206 (about £28)
Deck/lacing Eye and self tapper fixing screws (2) - used to tie off ends of uphaul and downhaul lines with 2:1 block (about £3)

Pete
SN1177

[Steve1142]

Hi Pete
I need to replace my kicker tang as it was ripped off on Sat whilst gybing in strong winds. is the method shown in the technical update 2016 using the two bobbles still the best?
Plus do you have any tiller cleat bases left?
Cheers
Steve 1142

[Pete1177]

Hi Steve,

You should now have one of the proper ASA Spinlock cleat bases to upgrade your rudder downhaul - sorry I sent you a nylon prototype by mistake!

Breaking kicker tangs is actually quite common - the tang attachment method is not robust enough to take the high dynamic kicker loads. Either a rivet pulls out or the tang itself breaks.

The method to attach is to use an appropriate length of Dyneema with a centre Brummel splice (forming an eye through which you attach the kicker hook). The Dyneema is then looped around the mast (once or twice each side) and tied off to a FORGED deck eye riveted to the front of the mast. This prevents the attachment sliding up the mast. I also pass the Dyneema through a small SS ring at the eye which is tied to a bolt through the mast step. This spreads half the load through the mast step and half to the mast. The bobbles are not really necessary - you could just tie overhand knots in the Dyneema with the ends hot-sealed to prevent pull through.

The kicker attachment should be renewed on an annual basis.

Hope that helps.

Pete
SN1177

[CliffMilliner]

Happy to help out a splice clinic..

This is the splice I use on my kicker strop. Takes a bit to get your head around so not a beginners job, if you think hard enough you can work out how to do this through the eyelet on the back of the mast. Easily the strongest splice for this job I have found, Ive never had the splice fail using this method, but Pete’s right you do need to keep an eye on it and replace regularly.

https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=5925.0

Cliff

[Steve1142]

Cheers Pete / Cliff
Both upgrades complete. Hope to see you @ Bough Beech.
Regards
Steve 1142

[paulmcnally]

I'm new to the class and there seems to be some variations on rudder downhaul systems. There's the one posted here using a Spinlock PXR0206 and the continuous control line setup described in Mk 1 & Mk 2 Modifications on the website, which I've yet to get my head around. I'm inclined to just replace the Clamcleat on mine (which slips) with a Spinlock cleat but not sure where to source the base moulding for the tiller extension. Any ideas?

My gooseneck spigot seems to have quite a bit of play in it. Can anyone let me know how to source the new & improved version?

Many thanks.