Daggerboard slot repair

[JaneB]

Hi All
Does anyone have any comments on the best way to repair the below dagger board slot casing please? It’s on the aft of the slot.
Does anyone have advice or even better photos of the best way to replace the gaskets after repair please??
Also - what type and size is the main sheet bridal line please? The block isn’t spliced central and needs correcting.
Thanks all
Jane

[TimH]

This happened on my old boat to me. I took some advice and got it repaired professionally as they had to get at it from underneath (hole in the hull required). Boat came back in very good condition but cost me about £300 if I remember correctly. The gaskets are easy - Hartleys use a self sticking strip with a brush type surface but you can also get Japan tape from many sailing stores - also self adhesive.
Rgds Tim

[JaneB]

Hi Tim.
Thanks for the reply.
What problems was the damage presenting you with?
My daggerboard has two issues - sometimes it wedges itself in making it hard to lift. More frequently though it pops up unexpectedly. I am guessing the popping up is due to lack of gasket and the wedging is the damage…
Was your board also wedging?

Thanks
Jane

[Pete1177]

Hi Jane,

I think you need to see if there is any slot damage. Do you get any water in the hull, for example - this may be a sign that the slot has cracked. Did anything happen that may have caused slot damage - did you ground the boat with the daggerboard down? Is the stiffness a gradual thing, or has it suddenly just happened? If you turn the boat on its side (preferably on grass) then you can have a good look at the slot from underneath to check.

As Tim mentions, you can get packing strip (self adhesive) from Hartley's which is supplied with enough to do top and bottom of the slot. Make sure the surface of the slot is well cleaned with acetone before you stick the packing on so it won't come off in the future. I replace mine every 2 years.

The other thing that really helps is to polish the daggerboard and to repair any dings/dents in the leading and trailing edges. Ideally you would polish with a random orbital polisher and polishing paste to bring up to a mirror finish (also the rudder) - this has some impact on boat speed too. Otherwise just do it by hand with some wet and dry very fine grit (1200 then 2400 grade). Those sponge flexipads used for DIY (https://www.diy.com/departments/10-pack-abrasive-finishing-pad-150-x-230mm-ultra-fine-grade-long-lasting/5056524279687_BQ.prd) are good for a final finish by hand, or you could use fine wire wool. Don't use any wax and certainly nothing with silicone in it otherwise you won't be able to grip it when you capsize (it will be too slippery).

You might find doing the packing and a good clean/polish will sort it and the board will be much easier to adjust.

Let us know how you get on.

Pete
SN1177

[JaneB]

Thanks Tim and Pete for commenting.
Will let you know how I get on.
Epoxy’s etc now purchased for my winter scratch and dink removal projects. So now committed to doing it myself:-)

Which one - no wax or silicon on daggerboard but what about the hull?
Thanks again
Jane

[Pete1177]

Hi Jane

Good luck with the DIY repair. I wouldn't bother with polishing the hull. It has minimal effect on drag so hardly worth the effort. The foils are a different matter.

Pete
SN1177